onsdag 20. februar 2013

2006 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, Emidio Pepe




Orange, lys pluss, mye lett bunnfall tok raskt av.

Middels nese, ren klar og dyp frukt, ferske modne aprikoser og modent vintereple. Litt vanilje. Et snev av muskattnøtt kanter frukten. Svak sødme. Noe oksydativt preg.

Middels pluss munn, fruktig, god syre og pene finkornede tanniner. Konsentrert. Balansert. Ikke lett å ta frukten. En meget tørr gammeldags eplemost er kanskje nærmest. Litt volatil i avslutningen, sammen med lang nydelig frukt og pen tørring.

Etter kort tid stillstand i glasset lukter det som en gammel nebbiolo. Litt virvling og tilbake til den første nesen. Munnen holder seg stabil.

En spesiell vin, for spesiellt interesserte. Spesiell er også produksjonen. Biodynamisk dyrking, håndplukking, tråkkes av rene føtter, tilbringer 6 måneder i små åpne sementkar. Dekantering for hånd istedenfor filtrering, etikettene på for hånd.

Han har 250.000 flasker i kjelleren tilbake til 1964. Usvovlet og naturlig, montro hvordan de smaker etter 20 år ? Får prøve å skaffe en....

Emidio Pepe er med i Triple A Wine producers, hvor følgende gjelder;

"Manifesto" of the AAA wine producers.
This "manifesto" was created following the realization that the great part of the wines currently sold in the world are standardized, that are obtained with agronomical and oenological techniques that mortify
the imprint of the grapevine, the influence of the territory and the personality of the winemaker.
The standardization is generating similar wines in every corner of the planet, flattened in their organolectic characters and incapable of challenging time.
According to the Manifesto, to obtain a great wine, the wine-maker needs the basic skills, represented by the three As:

• A as in "agricoltori" (farmers)
Only the one who farms his vineyard directly can establish a correct connection between man and vine and obtain healthy and ripe grapes only with natural agronomical interventions.

• A as in "artigiani"(craftsmen)
You need craftsmanship methods and skills to implement a grape and oenological productive process which does not modify the original structure of the grapes and does not alter the structure of the wine.

• A as in "Artisti"(artists)
Only the artistic perceptivity of a wine-maker who is respectful of his own job and ideas, can give life to a great wine, in which the characters of the area and the grapevine are exalted.

From these initial considerations we derive the Decalogue, whose rules have to be respected by who wants  to produce AAA wines.

The Decalogue of AAA wines
The AAA wines can only be made:
1) by farmers who farm their vineyards without using chemicals, respecting the vine and its natural cycles
2) from grapes harvested when physiologically ripe
3) from perfectly healthy grapes
4) from grapes in which the time between harvesting and pressing is minimum
5) from must in which no sulphurous dioxide and additives are added
6) using only natural yeast and excluding  standardized yeasts
7) without chemical or manual intervention, before and during the alcoholic fermentation
different from the simple temperature control ( any intervention of  concentration of the wine is totally banned)
8) ripening with the vine own fine dregs until the time of bottling
9) not correcting any chemical parameter
10) not filtering before bottling

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